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This article is part of a guide to Hong Kong from FT Globetrotter
A pitfall of global drinking culture is that after a few sips of Peroni, Bordeaux or Drambuie, it’s easy to fool yourself you could be in any city, anywhere. But pitch yourself on a Hong Kong rooftop and you’ll know exactly where you are. A rooftop drink, even if charged at the higher end of the spectrum in what is already a very expensive city, can turn an ordinary night into an occasion. What in the day can appear tawdry, sullen and commercial is at night transformed into a sea of razor-sharp lights.
全球饮酒文化的一个陷阱是，在喝了几口佩罗尼(Peroni)、波尔多(Bordeaux)或德拉姆布(Drambuie)之后，你很容易自欺欺人，以为自己身处任何城市、任何地方。但如果你站在香港的屋顶上，你就会知道自己身在何处。在这个已经非常昂贵的城市的屋顶上喝一杯，即使收费较高，也能让一个普通的夜晚变得与众不同。白天显得俗气、沉闷和商业化的东西，到了晚上就变成了一片灯火辉煌的海洋。
New bars may open and everyone has their reliable favourites, but in my few months of being in Hong Kong, the following have stood out. In some you feel closer to the sky than the ground below. At others, the joy is simply the feeling that on a rooftop, you’re existing right in the heart of the city. Two things to bear in mind: the risk of bad weather, and it is always worth checking if the place has been booked out for a private event.
可能还会开新酒吧，而且每个人都有自己的最爱，但在我在香港的几个月里，以下几家酒吧最引人注目。有的酒吧会让你感觉离天空比离地面更近。而在有的酒吧，快乐就是站在屋顶、身处市中心的感觉。需要记住两件事：一是可能天气不好，二是一定要检查一下这个地方是否已经有私人活动预定了。
Terrible Baby
Terrible Baby
fourth floor, Eaton HK, 380 Nathan Road, Jordan, Hong Kong
香港佐敦弥敦道380号Eaton HK四层
Good for: Hipsters and dance-music aficionados (features DJs and live music). Whiling away a Saturday evening with friends.
Not so good for: Grungy dressers
FYI: Nathan Road, one of the main roads through Kowloon, used to be known as the Golden Mile
Terrible Baby (from “enfant terrible”) in this case refers “to a group of young, passionate and fearless creatives who take inspiration from the Dadaist art movement. They are talented yet nonconformists; innovative and unorthodox who enjoy taking risks and being daring,” according to the bar’s website. I worry that it might take itself a little too seriously. But on arrival, I check out the cocktail menu (from HK$85; about $11/£9) and figure that anyone who sells a drink called Freak Show, a mix of tequila or bourbon, passion fruit, Thai red-chilli syrup and lager that frankly sounds like something my seven-year-old might mix up in the bath, knows how to have fun.
Terrible Baby（源自“enfant terrible”）在这里指的是“一群从达达主义艺术运动中获得灵感的年轻、热情、无畏的创意人士”。他们才华横溢，却不喜欢被规则束缚；他们喜欢创新，不墨守成规，喜欢冒险和大胆。”——来自酒吧网站。我本来担心它可能太严肃。但到了那之后，我翻了翻鸡尾酒菜单（85港元起；约11美元或9英镑），觉得会卖一种名为Freak Show的饮品——由龙舌兰酒或波旁威士忌、百香果、泰国红辣椒糖浆和窖藏啤酒混合而成，坦率地说，听起来就像我7岁的孩子在洗澡时可能会混合的东西——的人一定知道如何玩乐。
The fourth-floor rooftop bar is overlooked by a hotel whose neon-lit lifts fire up through the sky like molten wax in a lava lamp. We don’t discuss Surrealism or take many risks, but we do knock back the Freak Shows — as well as other inventive cocktails such as the tasty Rusty Plum, Crybaby and Rock Chick — and make it down the neon-lit escalators without hurting ourselves.
一家酒店俯瞰着四楼的屋顶酒吧，霓虹灯照亮的电梯穿过天空，就像熔岩灯里的熔化的蜡。我们不讨论超现实主义，也不冒太多风险，但我们确实会喝掉Freak Shows，以及其他创意鸡尾酒，比如美味的Rusty Plum、Crybaby和Rock Chick，然后在不会伤到自己的同时沿着被霓虹灯照亮的自动扶梯下楼。
Sugar
Sugar
32nd floor, east hotel, Taikoo Shing road, taikoo, Hong Kong
香港太古城太古城道东隅酒店32楼
Good for: An alternative view of the harbour
Not so good for: Drizzly nights. They don’t have enough umbrellas to go around
FYI: Take the slow route there on a tram — one of the world’s last double-decker trams
Sit on the terrace of Sugar and think about history, geography and how Hong Kong came to be Asia’s financial capital. The bar, named in homage to the commodity the district of Taikoo was once famous for, has a view of the harbour best enjoyed in early evening — not just for the sunset, but also the special offer of a Sundowner cocktail for HK$108 (about $14/£11) and two pints of draft beer for HK$158 (about $20/£16), from Monday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 7:30pm. Drinks include the Cheeky Collins, a mix of Hendrick’s gin, lychee liqueur, rose and green tea cordial, and the whisky-forward Where’s the Monkey, a concoction featuring apple juice, rosemary and ginger beer. For those who find the cocktails too saccharine, choose a whisky from the extensive list and take in a part of the city once filled with warehouses that is now crammed with high-rises. As an extra bonus, the washbasin in the women’s bathroom has an equally startling view of a sparkling, high-rise horizon.
坐在Sugar的露台上，思考历史、地理以及香港是如何成为亚洲金融之都的。这家酒吧的名字是为了向太古区曾经闻名的商品致敬，在傍晚时分最能欣赏到海港的景色——不仅是日落，还有108港元（约14美元/ 11英镑）的Sundowner鸡尾酒和158港元（约20美元/ 16英镑）的两品脱生啤酒的特别优惠，时间为周一至周六下午5点半至7点半。饮品包括Cheeky Collins，由亨德里克(Hendrick)的杜松子酒、荔枝利口酒、玫瑰和绿茶甜酒混合而成，以及威士忌型的Where’s the Monkey，由苹果汁、迷迭香和姜汁啤酒混合而成。如果觉得鸡尾酒太甜，可以从丰富的酒单中选择一种威士忌，然后欣赏一下这个曾经全是仓库、但现在到处都是高楼大厦的城市。作为额外的福利，女卫生间的洗手池也可以看到闪闪发光的高层地平线。
Feather and Bone
Feather and Bone
22 Mosque Street, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong
香港半山区摩罗庙街22号
Good for: Cheap, post-work drinks
Not so good for: Restraint. Relatively low prices can encourage you to to overindulge
FYI: Once you’ve bought your wine, you have to leave the building and walk around the back to access the roof terrace
Cutting through the hilly central Mid-Levels district is the largest outdoor escalator system in the world: an 800m-long chain of moving stairs and walkways that carries workers downhill every morning, before changing direction and escorting their weary bones home at night. Stick on the escalator to Mosque Street and you will eventually arrive at Feather and Bone, an upmarket butcher, deli and restaurant with a rooftop terrace that at first glance appears to be a private garden. While there is no table service on the terrace, it is no hardship when weighed against the quiet and privacy, the view of the green Jamia mosque, the oldest in Hong Kong, and the escalator hordes — and you can buy a bottle of wine at retail prices in the shop, such as a Portuguese Azevedo vinho verde (HK$168; about $21.50/£17), and bring it outside for alfresco enjoyment. Feather and Bone will open the bottle, provide plastic glasses and allow guests to order food from the restaurant as long as it’s brought upstairs. It’s an ideal place for early-evening drinks.
世界上最大的户外自动扶梯系统穿过丘陵起伏的半山区，这是一条800米长的自动扶梯和人行道链，每天早上把上班族送到山下，然后晚上再把他们疲惫的骨头护送回家。乘坐自动扶梯前往摩罗庙街坐到头就是Feather and Bone，这是一家集肉店、熟食店和餐厅于一体的高档餐厅，屋顶露台乍一看像是一座私人花园。虽然露台上没有餐桌服务，但与这里的安静和隐私、香港最古老的些利街清真寺(Jamia mosque)的绿色景色和扶梯上的人群相比，这也就不算什么了。你可以在店里以零售价买到一瓶葡萄酒，比如葡萄牙的阿泽维多(Azevedo) vinho verde （168港元；大约21.50美元/ 17英镑），然后带到户外享受。Feather and Bone提供开瓶服务，提供塑料玻璃杯，并允许客人从餐厅订购食物，唯一的要求是要带到楼上。这里是傍晚喝酒的理想场所。
Sevva
Sevva
25th Floor, Prince’s building, 10 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong
香港中环遮打道10号太子大厦25楼
Good for: Glamour in the heart of the city
Not so good for: People with a poor sense of direction. I got lost in the web of air-conditioned tunnels beneath the Prince’s building
FYI: Check out the display of Louis XV-themed cutlery by the entrance
The Bank of China building, all flashing triangles and sharp edges, is one of the most distinctive in Hong Kong. Officials preparing for the handover to China in 1997 feared the design heralded bad feng shui. But the feng shui for visitors to Sevva is surely good. Step on to the panoramic terrace to a Blade Runner-like landscape that takes in not just the Bank of China and Statue Square but also the 60m-tall Hong Kong Observation Wheel and the harbour itself. The champagne here is brain-numbingly cold, the music is high-octane, clubby and loud — setting the mood for a party just on the right side of cheesy. Prices are certainly at the higher end: the bespoke mojitos — litchee, guava, strawberry and champagne, and charred mandarin — all come in at HK$185 (about $23.50/£19). But it’s worth it for the location and stylish setting: go early to set the tone for an excellent night out.
中国银行(Bank of China)大楼是香港最具特色的建筑之一，所有建筑都是闪亮的三角形和锋利的边缘。1997年准备将香港移交给中国的官员担心，这个设计预示风水不好。但对于Sevva的游客来说，风水非常好。登上全景露台，不仅可以看到中国银行和皇后像广场(Statue Square)，还可以看到60米高的香港摩天轮和海港，这仿佛银翼杀手般的景色。这里的香槟冷得让人麻木，音乐充满活力、有着俱乐部般的气氛、音响响亮——为派对营造了一种恰到好处的气氛。价格当然很高：定制的莫吉托酒——荔枝、番石榴、草莓和香槟，以及烧焦的柑橘——售价为185港元（约合23.50美元/ 19英镑）。但它的位置和时尚的环境非常值得：早点去，为美好的夜晚定下基调。
Popinjays
Popinjays
The Murray, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, Hong Kong
香港中环红棉路22号美利酒店
Good for: Corporate events when you want to impress a client. A high-stakes date
Not so good for: Weatherproofing. The first time we tried Popinjays, the bar was shut because of the rain — dispiriting after a trudge up Cotton Tree Drive
FYI: Call in advance because it gets booked up for private events. The doorman at The Murray hotel can arrange a taxi home
Popinjays’ Cotton Tree cocktail
The view from Popinjays’ terrace
Michael WeberPopinjays的Cotton Tree鸡尾酒
Popinjays露台上的景色
Popinjays, named after the parrot and a reference to its sociability, deals in the kind of luxury that can feel a little twee — namely the cushioned leather seat in the private lift at The Murray hotel that takes you right up to the bar. But the service, the right mix of formal and friendly, puts visitors at ease. The wine list is decent, there are plenty of champagnes to choose from and the choice of whiskies seems to cover every distillery in Scotland, and then some. The delicious bar snacks include truffle mini pizzas and lobster rolls, and with an afternoon tea (HK$398; about $50/£40) offering that includes oyster, caviar, lobster and Peking duck, this is very much special-occasion territory. On the nights we were there, it seemed a destination for engagement parties and quiet fun. Whatever the event, there is enough space on the impressively large 420 sq m terrace to kick back and enjoy the evening.
Popinjays——以鹦鹉的名字命名，并强调了其群居习性——经营的奢侈品可能会让人感觉有点华贵，美利酒店私人电梯里的真皮座椅可以直接带你去酒吧。但是，正式而友好的服务让游客感到轻松自在。酒单很不错，有很多香槟可供选择，威士忌的选择似乎涵盖了苏格兰的每个酿酒厂，甚至更多。美味的酒吧小吃包括松露迷你披萨和龙虾卷，并配有下午茶（398港元；约50美元/ 40英镑），包括牡蛎、鱼子酱、龙虾和北京烤鸭，这是非常特殊的场合。从我们在那里度过的几个夜晚来看，这里似乎是订婚聚会和安静娱乐的好去处。无论什么活动，420平方米的露台都足以让您放松身心，享受夜晚。
Ohana
Ohana
29th Floor, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
香港湾仔皇后大道东202号QRE Plaza29楼
Good for: Unpretentious fun and reminder of mis spent youth
Not so good for: Impressing people
FYI: It’s near a great Sichuan restaurant called Deng G. Head to Ohana after dinner
Ohana’s selling point is its Hawaiian theme, and there’s a smell of exotic fruit — or possibly air freshener — as we arrive. Its 29th-floor Wan Chai location gives the bar an urban, student-y feel, with its wicker chairs and hookah pipes underlining the fun and indie vibe. The crowd is young, its signature cocktails come in at around HK$128 (about $16/£13) and, if you’re brave enough, it serves “Undrinkable” absinthe shooters too (HK$118; about $15/£12).
Ohana的卖点是它的夏威夷主题，我们一到那里就闻到了一股异国水果的味道——或者可能是空气清新剂的味道。酒吧位于湾仔29楼，给人一种都市学生的感觉，柳条椅和水烟管突显了这里的乐趣和独立氛围。这里的顾客都很年轻，招牌鸡尾酒售价在128港元左右（约合16美元/ 13英镑），如果你够勇敢，这里还供应Undrinkable苦艾酒（118港元；15美元/12英镑）。
The Quick Fix at Ohana, whose cocktails are created with a sustainable ‘stem to seed’ approach
The Tiki-inspired Ohana is popular with a younger crowd
Ohana的Quick Fix鸡尾，采用“从茎到籽”的可持续方法制作
Tiki风格的Ohana在年轻人中很受欢迎
Though the cocktails are where Ohana shines. The Lit’Chi, a vodka cocktail with a mix of fruit including lychee, raspberry, pineapple and orange, is dangerously quaffable, while the Ohana Colada, a refreshing mix of rum, pineapple, banana, coconut and lime, is a crowd-pleaser. Earning Ohana bonus points is how cocktail ingredients are used from “stem to seed”, a nose-to-tail-like approach in mixology that aims to reduce waste. But this bar does not take itself too seriously. The night I’m there, the staff wear T-shirts telling me to chill, there are beer mats advising the same and, with the exception of the no-nonsense signs in the toilets telling me to clean up my own vomit or pay for the privilege of having someone else do it, this is indeed a chill club. Head here for a few drinks to cap off an evening.
虽然鸡尾酒是Ohana的亮点。Lit’chi是一种伏特加鸡尾酒，混合了荔枝、覆盆子、菠萝和橙子等水果，喝起来很危险，而Ohana Colada则是朗姆酒、菠萝、香蕉、椰子和酸橙的清爽混合，很受欢迎。为Ohana赢得加分的是“从茎到籽”的鸡尾酒原料，这是调酒学中一种“从鼻子到尾巴”的方法，旨在减少浪费。但这家酒吧并不太把自己当回事。我在那里的那天晚上，工作人员穿着t恤，告诉我冷静，啤酒垫上也是这么写的。除了厕所里言简意赅的标语，让我清理自己的呕吐物，或者花钱让别人帮我清理，这确实是一个冷静的俱乐部。来这里喝几杯，度过一个晚上。